Problem:
I can get the engine to run at one speed and load okay, but it won't run right
if I try to speed it up or slow it down.
Solution:
This is probably caused by the idle screw being open too far, and the load screw
turned in too far. This wrong combination will run the engine at one speed and
load. You should close off the idle screw completely, open the main load and get
the engine running okay at governed speed. Slowly reduce the speed and as the
engine tends to run a little rough, open the idle needle screw just enough to
make it run smoothly. Keep working the speed down and keep the idle needle screw
adjusted until you reach the desired idle speed.
Problem:
My engine was idling too fast so I closed down on the idle mixture screw to
reduce the speed but it runs rough.
Solution:
Never attempt to control idle speed with the idle mixture. Idle speed should be
controlled with the idle stop screw near the governor. This adjustment controls
the throttle butterfly valve opening at idle and in turn the idle air flow. At
that air flow, always set the gas idle mixture screw for fastest speed.
Problem:
Engine runs but won't come up to full speed or power.
Solution:
In most cases poor power is caused by a mixture that is too lean. This lean
mixture is often caused by too many pressure regulators in the system or some
small or restrictive fitting causing poor flow. Almost all conversion kits are
designed so that the engine will loosed power if the load adjusting screw is
opened too far. Our propane conversion kits are made to connect to full propane
tank pressure. If you want to install the conversion kit by connecting into a
pressure line at a reduced pressure or low pressure, call us.
Question:
I have a vapor withdrawal kit and the engine runs fine for a while and then
frost starts to form on the regulator. Is it possible the vapor pressure
reduction and flow is causing this?
Answer:
No. Frost is always caused by drawing liquid from the tank. Your tank may be
over filled or oriented wrong.
Problem:
Engine won't start or is hard to start.
Solution:
More starting problems are caused by over priming or dirt on one of the
regulating seats causing gas to leak through. If propane or natural gas make up
more than 10% of the fuel air charge, the spark plug will not ignite the
mixture, it is too rich. Propane and natural gas require from 50% to 100% higher
temperature to ignite a charge as compared to gasoline. The ignition must be in
good shape. You might try changing the spark plug gap to around .025
Starting Problems:
Starting has never been a serious problem when dealing with single fuel
alternate fuel engines. However, with dual fuel applications, especially those
under 250 cid, there are many factors that can contribute to hard starting.
These are:
1. Vacuum and air leaks
2. Incorrect carburetor sizing
3. Improper idle mixture adjustment
4. Over richening by start assist valve
5. Incorrect location of carburetor, regulator and or fuel lock
6. Improper location of electric fuel lock head
7. Incorrect spark plug gap
8. Cold ambient air temperatures
9. Incorrect starting technique
10. Poor engine condition
Vacuum and Air Leaks
In dual fuel applications on small displacement engines, an air leak, which
would not bother a larger engine, becomes critical, especially at cranking
speed. Any leak downstream of the air gas valve will reduce the amount the valve
will rise off its seat during cranking.
In extreme conditions, air enters through the leak during the entire stroke,
while the gas valve is lifted only during part of the stroke. This creates a
mixture too lean to burn. A primer may furnish the added fuel around the
metering valve to allow the engine to start, and with more numerous intake
cycles the leak may be overcome.
Vacuum leaks may be detected by spraying gasket sealed surfaces with a soapy
solution. If a leak is located, the engine will speed up due to the richer
mixture. This technique is quite effective around the gasoline carburetor area.
Air leaks may also be found in the engine, through intake valve seals or past
rings, which are not seated. The orifice in the PCV valve, which is open during
cranking and closed under vacuum, can add a sizeable amount of air. Be sure the
PCV valve does close properly after the engine starts.
Carburetor Sizing
It is important to correctly size the air flow capacity of the mixer to the
engine requirement. Use of a mixer that is too large for the engine displacement
makes idle adjustment extremely sensitive. When the larger mixers are applied to
smaller engines, enrichment for acceleration or power occurs too high in the RPM
range to be practical. The small engine cannot lift the large air valve quickly
or as high as a larger engine will.
Idle Mixture Adjustment
Correct idle mixture adjustment is critical to ease of starting. This is
compounded if the mixer is over sized for the engine. When the idle mixture (air
bypass) adjustment is closed, the air valve will open farther at cranking. Thus,
the air flow volume remains the same but gas flow is increased.
If the engine starts hard, check the idle mixture adjustment, following this
procedure: Tighten the idle mixture screw in. If the engine starts more easily,
slow the engine down while adjusting the idle mixture to prevent stalling from
an over rich mixture. Setting the idle mixture to the best idle (high vacuum)
cold will give a reasonable lean but satisfactory mixture after the engine
warms, however it should be adjusted to specifications in the fuel mixture
adjustment section.
Start Valve Enrichment
Use of the SV start assist valve for priming during cranking is helpful.
However, on engines two liters and under, a restriction such as the Impco J1-20
(1/16" I.D.) should be used. If these are not available, a spark plug nut,
approximately 1/16" I.D. pushed into the hose will prevent over priming.
The sizing of the orifice to the engine can be checked for accuracy by
energizing the SV valve separate from the starting circuit. When activated with
the engine idling, it may slow the speed or actually kill the engine. However,
if by opening the throttle it will start in a turn or two, the orifice is
satisfactory.
The SV should always connect to the air valve vacuum, not the intake manifold
Location of Components
Mounting the converter and fuel lock off the engine is desirable when
carbureting 4 cylinder engines. The vibration of the engine moves the converter
rapidly back and forth while the secondary diaphragm assembly tends to stay
still. This causes the gas pressure to pulse, and can cause excess fuel
consumption. The added weight of an LPG mixer and adapter on a gasoline
carburetor, if not properly braced, can combine with the vibration of a 4
cylinder engine to cause the gasoline carburetor fasteners to loosen, creating
air leaks.
Electric Fuel Lock Connection
Attaching the electric fuelock vacuum switch power lead to an ignition coil
terminal often leads to starting difficulties. The coil terminal is a weak
source of current, and having the fuelock's power lead attached to it robs the
ignition system of needed amperage.
Incorrect Spark Plug Gap
Spark plugs should be in good condition and gapped to factory specs. A protruded
nose plug is helpful if it will clear the piston at the top of its stroke. On
smaller engines a .025 gap is usually helpful
Ambient Temperatures
At very cold ambient temperatures -30 F -34 C or below, there may be
insufficient vapor pressure in the fuel tank to supply fuel to the converter /
regulator, resulting in no start or hard starting. Another condition, which may
prevent starting in cold weather, involves over priming. If this condition is
suspected, attempt to start the engine with the primer disconnected. The primer
can be disconnected by removing the electrical connector or by pinching the fuel
hose.
Incorrect Starting Technique
Over cranking the engine, especially in cold weather, causes over priming and
flooding, a common starting problem.